Theatrics can’t save Salt Bae’s leathery $130 steak
Nusr-Et may be this season’s most-talked-about restaurant, but be warned — it isn’t ready yet for prime time, no matter how many likes Salt Bae gets on Instagram. There are a few great dishes. The place is eye-pleasing and comfy, with the same barbell-shape layout and high ceilings of predecessor China Grill (60 W. 53rd...