Waterfront city that’s best visited in autumn has bargain fish sandwiches and affordable UK flights
TURKEY’S third biggest city, Izmir, sees temperatures hovering around 25C well into autumn.
Combining culture and coastline, it is the perfect place to get your fix of sunshine.
Top that off with fabulous food and you’ve got an epic city break.
WHY SHOULD I VISIT?
OFTEN overlooked in favour of the capital, Istanbul, or other coastal towns such as Bodrum, Marmaris or Kusadasi, Izmir is something of a hidden gem.
It’s the gateway to the pretty Cesme peninsula, which juts out into the Aegean and is dotted with beautiful beaches (try Tekke, a stretch popular with families, near a string of hotels and apartments, or Alaçatı Körfezi, a shallow, protected bay which offers jet skis, banana boats, and windsurfing).
And if you love food, you are in luck. Fish and seafood restaurants line the waterfront, known as the Kordon, while you can taste a variety of snacks in the city’s bustling Kemeralti bazaar.
Most sights are within easy distance from each other, but there’s an efficient public transport system, including bus and underground.
The Bilet 35 ticket can be bought for two, three, five or ten journeys, starting from just nine lira (20p).
STREETS MADE FOR WALKING?
IZMIR’S centre has several must-sees, all within walking distance of each other.
Start by strolling the picturesque Kordon, where you will see ferries regularly crossing the bay, and pass by Konak Pier, which was designed by French architect Gustave Eiffel. Here you will find several retail stores, as well as a handful of bars and restaurants.
Beyond this is Konak Square, known for the distinctive marble and stone Clock Tower in its centre which dates back to 1901.
From here you can lose yourself in the maze of streets that make up the Kemeralti Bazaar.
Stalls sell everything from clothing to fruit and vegetables, and you will find plenty of souvenirs to take home, from glass tea sets to baklava and lokum (Turkish delight).
Don’t miss a swift ride up 56m to the top of the city’s “Asansör” — the word means elevator, and this one, which was first built in 1907, used to be powered by steam, like the one in Lisbon. You will get a fantastic view of the city from the top (free).
ANYTHING FOR BUCKET LIST?
IT’S not in Izmir, but while you’re there, a trip to the ancient site of Ephesus is a must (£33pp, muze.gov.tr).
Less than 90 minutes’ drive away, the old city dates back to 10,000BC, and at various points, was ruled by the Greeks, the Romans, and the Ottomans.
Today you can still see what’s left of its inhabitants’ elaborate houses complete with mosaic floors, temples to gods and goddesses, and even a set of open-air, marble-topped public loos.
Pose for pictures next to the impressive 56ft-high remains of the Library of Celsus. Measuring 2,000 sq ft inside, it was one of the largest libraries in the Greco-Roman world.
You will also want to snap some of the dozens of cats who consider this site their home.
WHERE SHOULD I EAT?
IF you are just looking for a snack, Kemeralti Bazaar has simple cafes which specialise in cheap and tasty fish sandwiches — a local favourite.
And look out for those selling kumru, a hearty, local sausage, cheese and pepper roll.
You will also find street carts offering midye dolma, cooked mussels stuffed with rice and herbs, and served cold.
For more traditional Turkish food, try affordable Konyali Alsancak for kebabs and lahmacun (Turkish pizza made with mincemeat).
Or for a more romantic setting, Adabeyi on Konak Pier offers the chance to dine on anything from calamari to grilled sea bass as you watch the sun set.
I FANCY A DRINK
FOR a tipple with a stunning outlook, head to the Skyfire bar and restaurant on the eighth floor of the Renaissance hotel, which offers a panoramic view across the Aegean.
WHERE SHOULD I STAY?
THE Swissotel Buyuk Efes Izmir is a smart, contemporary hotel close to the waterfront, featuring cool artwork and sculptures dotted around the grounds.
Or the nearby cosy Renaissance Izmir has rooms decorated with vintage, black and white photos of the city.
GO: Izmir
GETTING THERE: Jet2 flies from Stansted to Izmir from £68 one way. See jet2.com.
STAYING THERE: Swissotel Buyuk Efes Izmir has double rooms from £120.
See swissotelbuyukefesizmir.com. The Renaissance Izmir has double rooms from £102 with breakfast. See marriott.com.
OUT & ABOUT: A three-hour walking tour of Izmir costs from 26€/£22pp. See withlocals.com.
For more information see visitizmir.org/en.