I witnessed polar bears being killed in the Arctic, but seeing carefree walruses was the real highlight
I reached for the marmalade as bear ecologist Chris Morgan shadowed the doorway. 'Cheer up, everyone. There is a bear and two cubs on the ice."
The dining room emptied. Seven layers of clothing and three minutes later I was on deck with eleven other guests, two guides and Chris. Our binoculars scanned a beautiful black and white landscape: black mountains, gray scree, white sky reflected in a glassy sea, shining like molten silver.
Far away across translucent 'fast' ice stuck to a deceptively low-lying glacier, a creamy polar bear led her 18-month-old cubs under a cliff along a narrow ...