Gucci's sense of superiority is almost palpable at Milan Fashion Week with exquisite show acknowledging every recent decade
It has been 364 days since Gucci unveiled a brave new dawn for womenswear under wild card appointment Alessandro Michele - in that time a lot has changed.
For one, Michele is a no longer a little known accessory designer with a photogenic hairstyle but a world leader who has influenced major fashion houses all over the globe.
Accordingly, when Gucci unveiled its third womenswear under his reign today, the sense of superiority was almost palpable.
From the dark, futuristic setting, to the eardrum rattling synth soundtrack and the collection notes - printed on stiff yellow card instead of the ubiquitous paper that defined the Gucci of old - this is is a house that knows exactly how important it is.
The collection, showcased against a backdrop of flashing strobe lights and pricey holographics, was equally confident with the innovative codes that will come to define Michele’s Gucci, pushed further forward still.
Referring to the philosopher Guattari and to the theories sounding non hierarchical entry and exit points, Michele noted “to inflame change thinking has to become rhizomatic”.
It was an aggressive statement that confirmed that this designer is taking no prisoners where redefining Gucci is concerned.
The collection, an exquisite mash up of historical references, silhouettes and aesthetics, served as proof of Guattari’s theory. High and low, sportswear and formal, historical, popular and achingly modern - everything was on offer here.
Combining flowing sheer gown with the ACDC logo and fusing Gucci’s signature chevron stripes with a 17th century court jacket, this collection was one with which Michele pushed on through to new ground.
Jackets synonymous with Twenties menswear were repurposed in luscious fabrics and worn with librarian style pleated skirts while dress coats printed with garish lions also stood out.
The show, which served as attack on the senses - albeit a very pleasant one - saw Michele mix up Gucci of old with Gucci of tomorrow by combining elements traditionally associated with high fashion such as conservative slip dresses or proper pillbox hats with sports socks and spray painted accessories.
Every decade in recent history was also acknowledged here, with the most rebellious years of the late Seventies and early eighties serving as an unmistakable addition.
Unlike so many of his contemporaries, Michele is not concerned with swimming upstream against the trends of modern fashion - he is concerned with creating his own river to swim in.
The collection unveiled today served as further proof that he has hit his goal.
Of course, as the designer who has found his work copied both on the high street and by other luxury brands knows too well, it won’t be long before the rest of the world plunges in beside him.
Earlier this week, a determination to find its own way incited Gucci bosses to buck the retail trend for "buy now" fashion by declaring plans to stick to the current model.
The announcement means Gucci customers will have to wait up to six months to get their hands on Michele's latest offering
When it's a collection that is as shoppable as this one is, six months feels like a long time to wait.
ArticleGucci's sense of superiority is almost palpable at Milan Fashion WeekMilan Fashion WeekGucciAlessandro MicheleThe brand have rejected the retail trend for 'buy now' fashion by declaring plans to stick to the current model
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