The race to cure baldness

Male-pattern hair loss affects 80% of men at some point in their lifetime (and female-pattern hair loss affects half of all women over the age of 70). But “until recently, we knew remarkably little about how to slow, halt and reverse its seemingly inevitable onset”, said Tom Howarth on BBC Science Focus.

For all the recent messaging about “body positivity”, the search for a balding “fix” has become “increasingly desperate – and financially lucrative”, said Esquire. The hair-loss industry is well on track to be worth £9 billion by 2030.

Balding happens when hair follicles on parts of the scalp produce gradually thinner and lighter hairs, until eventually they shrink and stop producing hairs at all. Until now, conventional treatments have focused on drugs that might help stimulate hair follicles or stop them shrinking. But they don’t work for everyone, can have unpleasant side effects and aren’t always available on the NHS. Other “solutions”, from micropigmentation to hair transplants and scalp-reduction surgery, have mixed results and can be very expensive. But now scientists think they have found new ways to make things look much better up there.

Hair loss cures in the pipeline

“Declarations of hair loss cures” have always been “a dime a dozen,” said Popular Mechanics, but recently there have been signs of genuine progress with new techniques – either to replace shrinking hair follicles with healthy ones or to use stem cell therapy to regenerate hair growth.

An “early frontrunner” is hair cloning, said Howarth on BBC Science Focus. Also known as hair multiplication, it’s a form of “hair banking”: before baldness hits, healthy hair follicles are extracted from your scalp and cryogenically frozen; once hair-thinning starts, these follicles are taken to a lab and the skin cells around them are isolated and multiplied; these “cloned” cells are then injected into balding patches on your head to produce lovely new hairs. A few private clinics already offer hair cloning in the UK; it’s pricey but costs may come down as the market increases.

For those whose days of hair-banking possibility are long behind them, autologous fat grafting holds some promise. Stem cells, harvested from fat cells taken from the belly, are injected into the scalp to stimulate hair growth. A study review of this technique, published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, found it to be “effective” in supporting hair regrowth and increasing hair density and diameter.

Meanwhile, in Japan, researchers are having success with their quest to grow hair follicles from scratch in a lab. Their “bioengineered hair follicle germ” has achieved follicle growth in mice, according to a study published in Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications. It’s a milestone in hair-treatment technologies, said Popular Mechanics.

Which is the most promising?

The “big one” is a drug called PP405, developed by US pharmaceutical company Pelage, said Lane Brown in New York Magazine. “The internet’s gathering places for the bald and balding” went wild when news broke that, in Pelage’s early clinical trials, it seemed not only to slow hair loss but to reactivate “parts of the scalp that have already surrendered”.

“We were blown away,” said Qing Yu Christina Weng, Pelage’s chief medical officer, told the magazine. After four weeks of applying the drug as a topical gel, not only were the treatment group “growing new hair where there wasn’t any before, it wasn’t peach fuzz or baby hair – it was proper, thick, terminal hair”. By week eight, 31% of those treated with PP405 had a 20% increase in hair density, compared to 0% in the placebo group, according to a Pelage press release.

The drug, which is designed to stimulate the activity of a metabolic enzyme called LDH in hair-follicle stem cells, still has further, bigger trials and safety tests to get through before it can be approved by regulators. But, if it is, its potential is obvious. “After decades of snake oil and broken promises,” it feels as though “the end of baldness” is within sight, said Brown. Call it “the faint stubble of hope”.